Sunday, August 17, 2008


Related links:

Binondo Church - Wikipedia

Plaza Calderon de la Barca in Binondo

Ysla de Binondo and The Chinese Revolt

Roman Ongpin

Two Weddings and a Food Trip

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posted by Señor Enrique at 8:45 AM


Anonymous Anonymous said...

Have you seen the antique image of the Pronto Socorro? I believe the icon dates back from a church in the old Parian (16th or 17th century). The Parian church was demolished and the icon was transfered to Binondo Church.

The old icon is locked up inside the baptistry located below the bell tower. It can be hardly viewed from the baptistry's smoked glass doors. The entrance to the baptistry is next to the huge crucifix (second image from top).

I have made several attempts to view it but to no avail. It's one of those tangible pieces that adds to the rich history of Binondo and our country in general.

August 17, 2008 3:40 PM  

Blogger ka tony said...

Hi Eric,

Thanks for featuring once again my historical hometown Binondo! I think my last visit was 12 years ago. I video recorded places I used to hang out, which included the district of San Nicolas.

I also recorded the house of "Kapitan Tiago" (which I think still with my files) was the setting of Rizal's Noli. It might have existed or might only be a place in Rizal's imagination. I'm not trying to disclaim Ambeth Ocampo's article "The House on Anloague Street" # 175 Juan Luna St. (former calle Anloague), which the owner was Balvino Mauricio, that Rizal used for his Noli's opening.

According to Ambeth Ocampo, searching for the "house" they (Mr. Ocampo & Senor Ortiz Armegol, was a Spanish ambassador to the Phil.) crossed "Estero de Binondo." By crossing the estero from "Plaza Calderon de la Barca" one have to take "San Fernando Bridge" which connects Binondo & San Nicolas. By crossing the bridge from Binondo, one will find himself in the district of San Nicolas. Mr.Ocampo & Snr. Armegol after the bridge, crossed the first street, the tail of "calle Tabora", next street (they turned left, south) will be "calle Sto. Cristo" perpendicular to calle Barraca (means "barracks"), during Spanish time was cabins for the "marineros" and a shipyard. The end of "calle Barraca" is the Pasig River.

According to Mr. Ocampo in his previous research revealed that the warehouse # 2 on "calle Barraca" was the site of the hotel "Fonda de Lala" because according to Rizal's description on the 5th chapter of Noli, "Ibarra returns to his hotel room and looks out the window across the estero into Kapitan Tiago's house where the party in his honor continues without him"

Indeed, if one is in hotel "Fonda de Lala" located in San Nicolas, looking beyond "Estero de Binondo" you can see "calle Anloague (Juan Luna St.)". But its too far, your vision have to pass "calle Tabora", "Estero de Binondo," then "calle Anloague" & "calle Ingreso" to view # 175 Juan Luna St. without blocking one's view, like buildings, houses, trees, etc... Remember "calle Anloague (tagalog word for builder)" was named, because this street was once where one can buy building materials and deal with "carpenteros" had tall buildings & houses.

Again I'm not disclaiming Ambeth Ocampo, I like his articles & he might be right on his research "site" I'm just suggesting another alternative.

Now, here's my father's research & claim, the house of "Kapitan Tiago" which I agree 100%. Rizal's description on the 5th chapter of Noli... "Ibarra returns to his hotel room and looks out the window across the estero into Kapitan Tiago's house where the party in his honor continues without him" Remember Rizal stayed at "Hotel de Oriente" in Binondo before going to Europe & before writing Noli. He also walked two blocks (from his hotel and will cross "calle Oriente" & "calle Condesa") to attend mass in Binondo Church located on Plaza Calderon de la Barca.

"Hotel de Oriente" occupied the whole block from "calle Oriente" to "calle Veronica". "Calle Veronica" few meters will be the "Estero de Reina" & taking the bridge, you'll be at "Meisic" (Ma Insik). Rizal, looking out his hotel window, will have the view of the Plaza C. de la Barca on his right is "calle Veronica" a corner block meeting "calle Anloague" (Juan Luna). The "bahay na bato" on this corner with a "tisa rojo" was the setting of Rizal's Noli. The back of this house is the "Estero de Reina" which Rizal mentioned on his Noli that "Kapitan Tiago" & his neighbors used the estero to wash their clothes, dishes, drink, bath etc... # 175 Juan Luna St., "house" does not have a estero at the back!!!

I hope Eric the house is still there & I hope my Dad's claim is right. One of my Art Exhibits, which I featured "Binondok" included "Casa de Maria Clara" ...

Thanks once again Eric, this is a long comment, but I hope you & my fellow commentators find this interesting.
ka tony

August 17, 2008 3:56 PM  

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Was just at the Binondo church last week. later had an early lunch at the President Restaurant which is just several blocks away.First time in decadeds to be there and in Divisoria again.

August 17, 2008 4:53 PM  

Blogger Señor Enrique said...

Haven't seen it, Traveler, but it does seem to be a significant enough artifact. I'm puzzled why the church officials wouldn't allow it to be publicly displayed (even in protected case or something).

August 17, 2008 7:50 PM  

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Señor, T.O.F.,

There is a replica (photo) of Pronto Socorro at the Bahay Tsinoy Museum, just go to where the tombstones are. Ive seen that painting, its really very small.

August 17, 2008 7:59 PM  

Blogger Señor Enrique said...

You research does seem more plausible, Ka Tony.

Metrobank now occupies the lot where Hotel de Oriente once stood. The street name "Calle Oriente" may soon be changed to Ty Street in honor of the founder of Metrobank.

Calle Veronica is still the same name, and you're right ... there is an estero very near it, which I have taken a picture of from Reina Regente Street and posted it to accompany my post, "Manila's Estero System" (top photo):

However, "Calle Anloague" (now Juan Luna [?]) is one street over Reina Regente and quite a distance from Hotel de Oriente ... I'm getting confused now ... hehehe.

The bridge going to San Nicolas could be partly seen on the top photo of this blog entry, in front of Binondo Church.

Where exactly was your house again in San Nicolas. I may head on over there in the very near future.

Thanks again, Ka Tony, for sharing with us your insight!

August 17, 2008 8:06 PM  

Blogger Señor Enrique said...

And I trust you had a wonderful time, Leo!

Have been going at Wai Ying Fastfood restaurant instead of President :)


August 17, 2008 8:16 PM  

Blogger Señor Enrique said...

Thanks for the information, Ivan. Will make it a point to check it out next time I visit Bahay Tsinoy.

August 17, 2008 8:22 PM  

Blogger ka tony said...

"However, "Calle Anloague" (now Juan Luna [?]) is one street over Reina Regente and quite a distance from Hotel de Oriente ... I'm getting confused now"

...yes Eric its quite a distance from "Calle Veronica, "Reina Regente" and "Calle Anloague" to meet at one point, seems impossible. Remember these three streets meet at one big oval shape "Plaza Calderon de la Barca"

Kapitan Tiago's "bahay na bato (hope it's still standing)" is on the corner of "calle Reina Regente" (by the foot of the bridge) and "calle Veronica" this street ends at the middle of "Hotel de Oriente" (during the 60s was used by the Department of Internal Revenue) perpendicular "Plaza Calderon de la Barca" The corner of "Hotel de Oriente" and corner of Kapitan Tiago's house, are just across the street. The house had a "piedra china" side walk, a huge Spanish wooden door that opens at the center, one side of the door had a small door to accommodate a person to enter without opening the huge Spanish wooden door. This small door had a brass door knocker in shape of a hand holding a ball. Had wooden balusters under its "capiz" windows and above these windows are rectangular colored stained glass. The roof is made of "azulejos rojo" (red tiles), weeds & cocoon grow abundantly! The size of the facade is about the size of a 3 door apartment.

Kapitan Tiago's house is not the only house on that block, there are two more, before the end corner (which was a sari-sari store owned by a Chinese, in 1960) which is "calle Anloague" (now Juan Luna).

Now Eric, according to my Dad, Lorenso Ruiz was not the first Saint born in Binondo, but the first Philippine and also female saint was "Santa Ciriaca" or I think "Santa Ignacia" she was called. He told me that her remains is in Binondo church (I really want to research on this one).

The first picture you took on this blog, at the background is the bridge going to San Nicolas, "calle San Fernando" the street where one of Rizal's sister used to live (there was a historical marker). "Calle San Fernando" was the Ayala Ave. during the Spanish time. "Calle Escolta" (Escort) during the British rule was named because horseman or "escorts" of the elite who came to shop in Binondo, stayed & waited for their "amo" or boss. San Nicolas & Binondo were the place to shop and for this reason the names of the streets are...

# Caballero - all accessories horsemen need
# Fumadero - for cigar smokers & "Apian Houses"
# Jaboneros - for soap & bathrooms
# Clavel - for carnations & other flowers

As you walk "calle San Fernando" after "calle Numancia" on your left will be the Pedro Guevara Elementary School. Now Eric, the main entrance of this school is a big puzzle in the history of Binondo & San Nicolas. The original school made of wood was demolished in 1959 to give way to a new concrete one, but they kept the huge "relief marble stone" on the top entrance. As far as I remember there were two angels with trumpets on each side and writings were not Spanish but in Portuguese!!! Why, how & were did it came from, no one knows.

After the school, will be the First Fire Station in Manila, the reason why they have # 1 on their fire engines. Still in calle San Fernando, turn right on "calle Madrid" the main street of San Nicolas. The first street you'll cross will be "calle Jaboneros" the second will be "calle Lara" Face left on "calle Lara" on the corner of Lara & Madrid, on your right was the site of our house. Were my lolo, dad, mom, my siblings, myself & Berto ("bertogo nan mana taka" ...remember him? he, he, he) used to lived. Our house is a stone throw away from "La Oficina Oficial del Presidente Emilio Aquinaldo y Fami" on the corner of "calle Lara." & "calle Sevilla"

Hope you find your way Eric,
ka tony

August 18, 2008 9:03 AM  

Blogger Unknown said...

Eric, I was in Manila in July and a Chinese friend and I walked around Intramuros, then went to Chinatown (ate at the President's ... sarap!) and our last stop was the Binondo church. I was delightfully surprised! I think it's one of the most beautiful churches that I've seen but, stupid me, by the time I got to the church my iXus had ran out of battery. :(

Thank you for posting about it ... and the helpful comments here. I'll make sure it's in my itinerary next time I go back to Manila (and I hope to bump on you, clicking away!).

August 18, 2008 11:59 AM  

Blogger Señor Enrique said...

Hi Bugsy,

Next time you visit Binondo, try these other two restaurants:

1) Wai ying Fastfood:

2) Quan Yin Chay Vegetarian

Both eateries are in the same vicinity as President Tea House; very short walking distance.


August 19, 2008 8:25 AM  

Blogger Señor Enrique said...

Hi Ka Tony,

Not sure when I'll make my trek to San Nicolas, but I will base my photo shoot on the directions you had shared with us. And I'll make sure that I take a photo of the building where your ancestral home used to stand.

As you may already know, I used an excerpt of your comment on Rizal and Oriente Hotel in my recent blog article.

Maraming salamat, Ka Tony!

August 19, 2008 8:27 AM  

Blogger ka tony said...

Take your time Eric,

You can wait for me to see the decaying & the beauty once was San Nicolas through my year?

salamat Eric,
ka tony

August 19, 2008 3:58 PM  

Blogger Señor Enrique said...

Sounds like a good idea to me, Ka Tony. Besides, February isn't all that far away.

I'll ask Sidney to join us if that's all right with you.

Many thanks, Ka Tony!

August 19, 2008 9:47 PM  

Blogger ka tony said...

Yeah Eric, ask Sidney to come with us, the more the better!!!

Geeeehhh...this is exciting! I'm looking forward to go home & have an eyeball of the "Senor Enrique y Cia" historical outing!!!

Can't wait Eric, maraming salamat,
ka tony

August 19, 2008 11:18 PM  

Anonymous Anonymous said...

hello eric. thanks for sharing these photos. i am more convince now to see these places this coming dec 08. it will be an amazing opportunity for me to take photos of this historic landmarks.

and if you're not busy, maybe we can meet and take photos around manila. that would be great!

August 20, 2008 7:54 AM  

Blogger Señor Enrique said...

Hi Nell!

Not sure how long you've been away, but highly recommended:

1) Binondo Food Wok with Ivan Man Dy

2) Intramuros Walking Tour with Carlos Celdran.

These two guided tours are truly worth it!

Email me your contact number.

Wishing you ahead of time a wonderful and safe balikbayan vacation!

August 20, 2008 9:02 AM  

Blogger Señor Enrique said...

Great! Will let Sidney know. Thanks, Ka Tony!

August 20, 2008 9:26 AM  

Blogger ka tony said...

Hi Eric,

First, thanks for your message on my BanlawKasaysayan about BCS Bryant's website...

on Binondo.

Second, I would like to ask a favor, if I can quote our conversation on this blog about Kapitan Tiago's (Maria Clara) house on Bryant's blog?

I'm so exicited 'cuz I have proven that my Dad was right about what is now Calle Juan Luna. He told me that the half of this street was Calle Anloague and while the Divisoria side was Calle Jolo. I was not sure if he was right, so I didn't write or mention it. But after seeing Bryant's old map of Binondo and seeing Calle Jolo on the Divisoria side, I got goose bumps..."sorry Dad"

Thanks Eric,
ka tony

October 03, 2008 3:40 PM  

Blogger Señor Enrique said...

Sure! By all means, Ka Tony!

BTW, I might have a follow-up post on this as well :)

October 03, 2008 3:47 PM  

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Life in Manila as observed by a former New Yorker who with a laptop and camera has reinvented himself as a storyteller. Winner of the PHILIPPINE BLOG AWARDS: Best Photo Blog in 2007 and three Best Single Post awards in 2008.


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