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Saturday, January 10, 2009

THE BLACK NAZARENE FEAST - 2009

Like most grand events in Manila, yesterday's fiesta in Quiapo -- highlighted by the Black Nazarene parade -- was not without drama; this one was a case of the peoples' will versus that of the organizers'.

The intent of the latter was to create the safest route possible for all the participants and spectators as the Black Nazarene is paraded from the Quirino Grandstand in Luneta back to Quiapo Church. A noble intention, indeed; however, the local folks would hear none of it. They demanded the parade takes its usual, traditional route even if some streets along the way may not be as wide as Rizal and Recto Avenues.

They also argued that those who experienced serious injuries and even death in the past years were either drunk and foolhardy, or had simply overestimated their physical abilities to withstand the grueling task of pulling the rope while being literally crushed on all sides by their fellow barefoot devotees.

The organizers remained adamant; seemingly indifferent to the religious and cultural traditions held high by the local folks. In the end, the seething locals were left without any other recourse but to snatch the Black Nazarene from the newly-planned parade route -- as soon as it crossed over the MacArthur Bridge from Plaza Lawton. And they did!

A large number of Quiapo residents -- longtime devotees wearing white ribbons tied around their foreheads -- overwhelmed the visiting devotees who were pulling the ropes that moved the Black Nazarene cart. Grabbing the leading part of the ropes, the locals redirected the flow of the parade to their liking -- generally, back to its usual route that has been the tradition for many decades.

The authorities on the scene immediately decided to no longer oppose the will of the local folks so as to diffuse a volatile situation. The parade then proceeded peacefully without any incident of death as in the past years. There were reports, however, of minor cuts and abrasions on the feet of some devotees, as well as cases of fainting spells due to sheer exhaustion.

Incidentally, thousands of spectators and several media television crews along the new route were sorely disappointed upon realizing that no parade was ever heading their way. On the other hand, the residents on the old route and their fiesta visitors were ecstatic.





Minors are discouraged from joining the Black Nazarene feast parade, which has traditionally been marred by injuries and even death. Despite these frightful facts, going barefoot to pull one of the ropes of the cart that carries the Black Nazarene is deemed an honorable rite of passage by many Metro Manila youngsters. Longtime devotees take pride in having started when they were merely 14 or 15 years of age.

For some Quiapo kids, they join the parade early in the morning and for as long as they could tolerate its physical demands; returning to their respective neighborhood afterwards to take a much needed break. They would rejoin the parade wherever it might happen to be -- to insinuate themselves with crude force back into a crowd pulling the cart that is sometimes coursing with perilous asymmetrical movements.

The younger kids often go with their elders to join the parade but situate themselves a safe distance behind the Black Nazarene cart, while some remain on their particular block; keeping an eye out for passing celebrities. Supposedly, quite a number of them happen to be devotees such as Jomi Teotico of the Pinoy Fear Factor.





The parade could last for more than 12 hours; hence, not every one who join is able to withstand the entire duration. There are those who join for only as long as they could physically manage, while others do so for only a few minutes, such as some politicians who do it more for the photo opportunity.

There is also the faithful lot, joining the parade only during the late afternoon or early evening hours due to work or family obligation constraints.

The video below shows the procession at around 7:30 pm as it passed the corner of Guzman and Morillo Streets. I realized that the only way I could get as close as possible to those pulling the ropes of the Black Nazarene cart would be at such spot (a narrow side street) and at such time.

Nonetheless, notice how some people tried to squeeze through in order to be able to pull the rope, and the grim persistence etched on the faces of some devotees who remained pulling the ropes, even though appearing to be at the brink of collapse. Take note as well of those who climb over peoples' shoulders just to get on the cart and touch the Black Nazarene statue or the cross with their towels.

Also a common sight during the parade, which was captured by this video, was that of residents offering free water and bread to the exhausted devotees.

The cart of the Black Nazarene of Quiapo Church is followed by a number of replicas owned by various groups of devotees from Metro Manila and the provinces. Some opt to participate in the parade from start to finish, while others for only a few hours. Every year, many devotees start camping out on Plaza Miranda the night before the feast.

Without a doubt, with devotees coming in droves to participate in the celebration of the feast of the Black Nazarene, the Quiapo Fiesta is regarded as Manila's most heavily attended event.

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Labels: Black Nazarene, event, life in Manila, Quiapo

posted by Señor Enrique at 9:53 AM | 45 comments

Thursday, July 17, 2008

HIDALGO STREET REVISITED

Named after one of the country's brilliant 19th-century painters, Felix Resurrection Hidalgo, the entire stretch of this street is bounded by San Sebastian Church on the east and Quiapo Church on the west. Notably, Hidalgo Street was one of Manila's most beautiful and fashionable streets -- boasting grand houses of some of Manila's finest families.

More than a year has passed since I first walked along Hidalgo Street and blogged about it. I went back there the other day, only to be dismayed to find it just as I had the first time -- jeepneys making a terminal out of the western end of the street, while a number of what used to be impressive ancestral homes remain neglected if not abandoned altogether. And from what I was told, the vagrants that gather at night makes the street even less desirable for anyone to venture into.

However, according to a Philippine Daily Inquirer article, some of the residents and leaders of various organizations located on the street and in the nearby area -- such as the NCS, Manuel L. Quezon University, St. Rita’s College, San Sebastian College, the Shrine of the Holy Face of Jesus and Hospitaller Order of the Brothers of St. John of God -- are now involved in some sort of concerted effort to restore certain aspects of the old Hidalgo Street, especially those that are historically and architecturally significant.

Msgr. Gerry Santos, director of the Nazarene Catholic School, claims that such restoration program is part of the school’s social commitment. “It is important to become socially aware and be concerned about our environment,” he told the Philippine Daily Inquirer during a recent meeting with different sectors involved in the project.

He added, “It’s a historical street, and if only for that, it merits the attention of educators as well as other stakeholders. So I decided to gather not only the residents but also the parents of children enrolled in our school, teachers and the Muslim community in Quiapo to ask what they could contribute to the project. The program has become multisectoral in terms of focus.”

The article also mentioned Dr. Fernando Nakpil Bautista, editor of the book "Quiapo: The Heart of Manila," who said that R. Hidalgo Street -- originally named Calzada de San Sebastian during the Spanish era -- is now a far cry from what it was decades ago. He recalled this street was once a "favored location for upper to middle class families because of its proximity to Malacañang, schools and churches, and recreational facilities on Rizal Avenue."

The article goes on to mention that:

“Many prominent families lived on the street in fabulous mansions, a few which are still around. The Aranetas, Zaragosas, Ocampos, Genatos, Paternos built their homes there because the street has a strategic location,” Zialcita said. “In fact, in 1817, the street was called the most beautiful street in Manila because of its grand homes,” he said, adding that the street was “okay” until 1960 when it started to decline.

Zialcita, who usually takes tourists around for a glimpse of Old Manila, also revealed that European architects were amazed at the vista. “But because it is congested with vehicular and human traffic now, one cannot appreciate its former beauty,” he lamented.

However, Zialcita stressed that the problem of R. Hidalgo has also been a problem of the City of Manila, and perhaps all cities in the country. “There was no plan for the buildings which were gradually neglected by the owners. Eventually, the owners left the place and fled to the suburbs,” he said.

But despite these unhappy changes taking place, Zialcita said it was nice to know that there are people who still feel affection and a pride of place for the street, and hope that restoring it to its old glory would not just be a pipe dream.

Below is a slide show of photographs I had taken during my walk on this street the other day.

Labels: life in Manila, Quiapo

posted by Señor Enrique at 9:35 AM | 14 comments

Saturday, July 12, 2008

UGLY BETTY COMES TO QUIAPO

This old house at the corner of Bilibid Viejo and Progreso Streets has once again become the center of attraction in this Quiapo neighborhood. Certain segments of the Philippine version of the popular television show Betty La Fea is being shot here.

This house and the immediate neighborhood have been the backdrop for many movies and tele-novelas produced in the past couple of years; thus, many local folks, much like New Yorkers, are quite used to the presence of production crews and major stars coming to the neighborhood to film or videotape their latest projects.

Labels: life in Manila, Quiapo

posted by Señor Enrique at 8:26 AM | 9 comments

Wednesday, July 09, 2008

FRIENDS ON-BOARD A JEEPNEY IN QUIAPO

Labels: music, photography, Quiapo

posted by Señor Enrique at 8:17 AM | 10 comments

Sunday, July 06, 2008

ON SAN SEBASTIAN STREET IN QUIAPO

Labels: Quiapo

posted by Señor Enrique at 12:45 PM | 20 comments

Thursday, July 03, 2008

THE BEST TURON SABA VENDOR IN QUIAPO

It remains as one of my favorite merienda foods. I can eat one everyday, in fact. The caramelized deep-fried crispy wrapper and the soft saba banana with a sliver of langka (jackfruit) inside make a heavenly texture.

The ones we make at home are much smaller and only slightly sweetened with brown sugar (above photo) unlike those sold by street vendors. However, the best turon and banana-cue street vendor in Manila that I know of is in Quiapo -- right on Bilibid Viejo and Ludovico Streets (near Loyola Street, formerly Lepanto). She has become so popular that the administration office staff from a couple of major universities in the area order turon by the hundreds from her during special school affairs. Hence, none would be available for the public on those days.

I was also told that the vendor, for sanitary reasons, first boils the sticks that she use for her banana-cues. Moreover, word has it that her earnings from selling turon and banana-cue enables her to send her kids to school. The eldest has already graduated from college and now working abroad.

The photos below were taken from her stall. Both the turon and banana-cue are ten pesos each.

Labels: Featured food, life in Manila, Quiapo, Street foods

posted by Señor Enrique at 7:13 AM | 16 comments

Sunday, April 01, 2007

PALM SUNDAY IN QUIAPO

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Labels: Palm Sunday, Quiapo

posted by Señor Enrique at 8:12 PM | 17 comments

Sunday, March 25, 2007

MABUHAY ANG QUIAPO!

It was a celebration of Manila's famous district which consisted of three events -- the opening of Revitalizing Quiapo Photo Exhibit at Arsenio Lacson Underpas; the opening of Juan Nakpil: National Artist for Architecture Exhibit at Bahay Nakpil-Bautista in Calle A. Bautista; and the launching of the book, Quiapo: Heart of Manila, edited by Fernando (Butch) Nakpil Zialcita, jointly published by The Cultural Heritage Studies Program, Department of Sociology And Anthropology at Ateneo de Manila University and Metropolitan Museum of Manila.

Gemma Cruz Araneta, President of Heritage Conservation Society of the Philippines hosted the opening of the Juan Nakpil exhibit. She is shown in the photograph on the left standing behind Fernando (Butch) Nakpil Zialcita.

The ubiquitous face of Manila, Congressman Miles Roces cut the ribbon to officially open the photo exhibit at the Arsenio Lacson Underpass, while mayor Lito Atienza was the guest of honor and speaker at the book launching party held over at Calle San Sebastian right behind the San Sebastian Basilica.

Many fellow bloggers attended these series of events such as Sidney Snoeck, Ivan Mandy, Tito Basa, Ivan Henares, and Carlos Celdran.

Ivan Mandy was most gracious for introducing Sidney and I to the many members of Heritage Conservation Society of the Philippines, especially Gemma Cruz Araneta and Fernando (Butch) Nakpil Zialcita.

A sumptuous dinner followed wherein I met an intensely passionate professor of architecture at UST, who shared with us his insight on the future development of Manila as he envisions it. I trust that I will meet him again in the near future so I could feature his views and portrait on this site.

Many thanks to Tito Basa for inviting us to this wonderful celebration of Quiapo!

Thank you as well to the shy and elusive Belgian Consul who arranged our invite for that tasty dinner.

Labels: Manila, Quiapo

posted by Señor Enrique at 7:33 AM | 24 comments

Saturday, January 27, 2007

HIDALGO EAST OF QUEZON BOULEVARD

Inspired by the words of the great Manuel Luis Quezon, former President of the Philippine Commonwealth -- "education is the right of all citizens and that educated people is needed to ensure the upliftment of the masses and the creation of wealth for all" -- several prominent lawyers and justices founded Manuel L. Quezon University School of Law in 1947.

Its two campuses (the Administration Building and the Monzon Hall) still stand today on Hidalgo Street in Quiapo, Manila. These two structures, along with San Sebastian Church to the west, are the commanding landmarks of this enclave of Manila's Quiapo district.

I have been going to Hidalgo Street quite regularly since late year when it was transformed as a photographers haven. However, that is the Hidalgo Street between Plaza Miranda at Quiapo Church and Padre Gomez Street. The area of Hidalgo Street where the campuses of MLQ University are located, is at the other side of Quiapo Church, across Quezon Boulevard, leading towards San Sebastian Church.

Besides the buildings of MLQ University and the Catholic high school of Saint Nazarene, along this stretch of Hidalgo Street are some vintage two-storey houses, though most appear hardly maintained and decripit. One can only imagine the grandeur they once projected during their heyday. Most notable of these old grand houses is the Bahay Nakpil-Bautista, which is now a musem and stands right off Hidalgo Street at N. Bautista Street. But there is one particular old house that captivated me. I plan to go back there with my dSLR and seek permission from its owner to allow me to take some photographs of its interior.

Labels: academe, Hidalgo Street, life in Manila, Quiapo

posted by Señor Enrique at 7:25 AM | 19 comments

Monday, September 25, 2006

ON CARLOS PALANCA STREET

This is Carlos Palanca Street heading towards Quezon Boulevard in Quiapo. The yellow building on the right is the Universidad de Manila (City College of Manila) where the old Clover Theater used to stand and where German Moreno started out as a janitor; behind it is FEATI.

Originally named Echague Street, this strip is quite famous for its affordably-priced housewares.



In addition, there are two longtime stores on this street that are quite popular as well. One is the Kim Chong Tin Hopia Factory; maker of the traditional hopia with thicker and toasted dough as opposed to Polland’s and Eng Bee Tin’s which is thinner and softer. Kim Chong Tin’s mini hopia is its best seller; the hopia mongo’s bag of eight pieces sells for P33.00.

The selling floor may appear spartan, but what most people do not know is that the bulk of this hopia factory’s income comes from the sale of its hopia filling, sold to bakeries nationwide.



Another product this street is famous for is cooked ham. This was where my father bought sliced ham and some freshly-baked rolls to be taken inside a movie theater for the entire family to feast on while watching a movie feature on a Sunday afternoon.



Excelente Cooked Ham is one of two stores on this street usually mobbed during the holidays. One kilo of sweet ham retails at P680.00, but one can buy as small as a quarter of a kilo for P170.00. Besides cooked ham, Excelente also offers other processed meat such as bacon and variants of it.



So the next time you plan on shopping for some cooking and baking wares, explore Carlos Palanca Street. Afterwards, try the traditional mini hopia at Kim Chong Tin and some sliced cooked ham at Excelente. If a ham sandwich is what’s on your mind, the Vienna rolls from the nearby Vienna Bakery are recommended.

At the tip of Carlos Palanca Street (from Plaza Lacson) is the Quiapo Bridge. Many of our wonderful handicrafts are sold at the stalls underneath the foot of the bridge.

Labels: Featured food, Manila history, Quiapo, walking tour

posted by Señor Enrique at 10:40 AM | 30 comments

Thursday, July 20, 2006

QUIAPO CHURCH

I’m not a religious person but every so often, I stop by and visit a church; not so much to hear mass, but to seek respite. The tranquil cavernous ambience of a church is, indeed, conducive for quieting one's mind. Lately, it has been Quiapo Church for me, but definitely not on Fridays. It’s mobbed.

Quiapo Church is walking distance from the university belt area where I sometimes play badminton. The bustling commercial area that surrounds it is where I also buy my shuttlecocks at a sporting goods store over at Raon Street (now Gil Puyat Street). In the midst of numerous stores that offer affordable prices from electronics to native handicrafts, are the street vendors who sell candles, sampaguita garlands, amulets and herbal cures for a wide variety of ailments (and also from what I was whispered, cannabis).

The church itself is home to the famed Black Nazarene, a dark hardwood statue of Jesus of Nazareth. It was created by a Mexican craftsman and brought via galleon from Mexico in the 18th century. This statue is taken out of the church and paraded during its feast. Many believe that those who pray to it are granted special favors and miracles. It isn’t unusual, therefore, to see some devotees crawling on their knees from the entrance to the altar as if humbly and earnestly begging for a miracle. However, for the hurried or those overburdened with life’s daily grind, inside the church at the back, sitting on plastic stools are the women — prayer warriors — who will pray on their behalf if requested.

Everyone has a wish to make. I do, too. And I breathe life into it through my self-created ritual — burning of a candle. But inside Quiapo Church, you are no longer allowed to burn candles as a measure, I suppose, to preserve its interiors. So what I do is buy candles from one of the vendors outside. Their portable stands also provide metal boxes where the customers may light and burn these candles. In New York, one of my favorite churches, St. Francis near Madison Square Garden, much to my dismay, replaced their votive candles with electric bulbs — you slip in your contribution and then turn on a switch. However, the scent of burning candles adds to the divine ambience of a church, I think.

Burning three candles has become a personal ritual whenever I visit a church. One is to breathe life to the wishes that remain unfulfilled not only the wish made by me but also those by friends and families. Second is to honor the memory of loved ones who had passed away and whose guidance I sometimes seek. Third is to symbolize my unity with everyone on the planetary and spiritual plane, as well as ultimately with the higher creative force, I refer to as God.

During these gloomy rainy days in Manila — when these opportunistic blues seem better able to sneak in unknowingly — there’s no better way for me to spend a few minutes of some free time than to visit Quiapo Church and light some candles.

Labels: Life in Manila Quiapo Church, Quiapo

posted by Señor Enrique at 8:58 AM | 8 comments

Life in Manila as observed by a former New Yorker who with a laptop and camera has reinvented himself as a storyteller. Winner of the PHILIPPINE BLOG AWARDS: Best Photo Blog in 2007 and three Best Single Post awards in 2008.

 

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